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1.What is the best prop for my sea-doo ski?


The best impeller selection is based on many things: the primary use of your craft and level of any modifications, and what you wish to have "more" of. There will be several Aftermarket offerings for most models. Since proper impeller selection is SO critical to your machines overall performance. THE best advice is given by people with proven set-ups and background.

2.Will a Top loader intake grate slow my boat down?


If it isn't set-up properly a top loader can scrub off some serious speed. I've also seen it enhance speed. There is a reason. Example: Your sea-doo machine is presently operating at peak efficiency, meaning a "too sweet to believe" type of unit. (They're out there, but just a few, here and there.) If a top loading grate was added to this machine it would likely loose top speed. With the stock intake grate basically loading the lower 180 degrees of the pump/impeller gullet as opposed to the "extra load" of water being brought into the pump by the top-loader design, the sea-doo machine would loose rpm and at that point it is no longer operating in the "peak efficiency" range. Now if the rpms are greatly reduced, due the added load of water being forced in to the pump, can we do anything about that? In a lot of cases yes, and recover speed. I remember the prices we would pay to get proper handling from our race machines. We used deep loaders to stay hooked up; couldn't win without it. Then we recovered once lost speed when we started to alter the impeller pitch to suit the intake grates needs! That's when it turned into a science for us. Example: Say a machine is revving beyond "peak efficiency" meaning a little under propped. Add a good intake grate that loads the pump a little more, this boat will likely increase speed. Increased pump thrust means increased speed. That's why it comes back to a THOUGHT-OUT intake grate. The loader blade has to be designed to work with the intended hull it is to be used on so that the loader blade angle is not producing any real "drag" effect. Remember, when you're at high speed the nose of your craft is angled up, not flat. Hulls have different "full out" plane angles. The grate should be designed with this research involved as well as the "good" hook-up we're looking for. Currently we know of some that work overall very well. We will only endorse the ones we've tested.

3.Will modifying my machine void the sea-doo warranty?


Yes, technically it can. Your warranties fate lies in the hands of the authorized servicing dealer and Bombardier. If you have modified your carburetors or your cylinder head and your MPEM failed, it really be wouldn't be related to the modifications you had on your unit. I find that most dealers understand that, especially when treated with patience and respect. Remember the dealer didn't build the machines, just sells them and most would hope to keep their customers happy. So I have found that most machines that receive regular maintenance are non-abused machines and if the owner has a good relationship with their dealer, you get fair service. But it does technically void your warranty. Sea-Doo wants its customers to be happy with its products, they are aware that "unauthorized tinkering" has been in human's blood for a long time.!

4.Do I have to re-jet my carburetors for open flame-arrestors?


Almost every model of PWC with the stock flame arrestor (if restrictive, which most all are), must be re-jetted/recalibrated to run to its full potential and in most cases to insure reliability by avoiding a lean situation.

5.What does and Perry Performance Group use for injection oil?


We use Sea-Doo XP-S in all of our injected boats. Simply because it has a very clean track record with us.We see lots of engines that have been run on different types of oil. The XP-S has shown to be a very good lubricant when inspecting wear and tear.

6.Are spark plugs pre-gapped out-of-the-box?


No. The gap out-of-the-box is typically found to be a little wide for Sea-Doo's specs. Always check your spark plugs for correct gap and adjust the gap as per manufacturer's specs.

7.What's the proper way to service a battery?


When servicing a brand new battery, fill with electrolyte to proper level, let stand for 20-30 minutes. Next, connect the charger at 2 amps for 8-10 hours in a well ventilated area. If your battery is currently in service, never add additional electrolyte after initial service. Distilled water is best. If not available, use tap water. If the battery has not been used for a period of time, always charge it before use and confirm that it will start your craft.

8.How often should I change my pump oil?


The first change is the most crucial. Early inspection can save you a lot of pump hassles and help your jet pump last. We do the first change at 15-20 hours. After that, every 50 hours. On all pump units with plastic rear pump cones keep a close eye on the o-ring fitment. Always pressure test your pump before reinstalling. Leaves no doubt you did it right.

9.What color should my plugs be burning?


If your spark plugs are new, you tend to get the best readings and most accurate readings after a little time has been accumulated on the plugs. After about 20-30 minutes of running time you should start to see proper "color-up" of the readings you're looking for. Before you start to do high speed runs with any modified unit, especially if it is a new set-up that you are not familiar with, take your time. First confirm that you can "make" your machine run too rich. Back out the high speed screws until you have a noticeable power/rpm loss. When you have confirmed that you indeed can make your craft run rich, you then know that you have a much slimmer chance of burning it down! Take your high speed screws in until you see a dark-tan to medium-tan after a few full throttle passes. It's nice to see a little moisture at the lower threaded area of the plug, typically means no serious heat going on! Perfect.

10.When do I need to run 91-93 octane fuel?


The only time it is needed with PPG modified components is when the compression is raised to a ratio that requires it. That starts at the Level One performance package. If you have a pre 2002 DI you need to be burning premium also! Running race fuel when your compression ratio doesn't require it is pointless. No HP gain at all.

11.How often should I clean my RAVE valves?


When used for extreme use about every 30-35 hours of operation. Standard usage, about every 50-70 hours of operation. Race use, inspect after every race.

12.Does my cylinder head need to be retorqued?


At the 10 hour mark it should be done, after that only the 947 engines should have a routine retorque after each 50 hours of usage.

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Perry Performance Group

Perry Performance Group
175 S.W. 20th Way
Dania Beach, FL 33004
p: (954)929-1636

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